We went to Albania in the summer of 2022, just because it was a short flight (the world just opened and suddenly flying because expensive!) and cheap (important in summer time). It gained independence in 1912 but only ended communism around 1992. Tourism is still at infancy but starting to boom, which makes it quite a lovely place to visit now. On the other hand, there are limited direct flights to Albania from Europe and mostly monopolized by Wizz Air now (which is one of the worst airlines in terms of punctuality) and ridiculously high prices for a relatively short flight. Once you get there, things are cheap and very affordable.
We spent 2.5 weeks in the country and did the standard tourist route around the country. Yes, it may seem like a small country but it takes time to travel around because of the windy roads. Yet, we didn't hit some of the towns or cities due to lack of time.
Tirana, Vlore, Dhermi, Gjirokaster, Permet, Shkoder, Theth, Valbone. That was our road trip done in a barely functioning car. Interestingly, in the height of summer holidays, renting a car was more expensive than one night's accommodation! Something to take note of in Albania on renting cars. There are the usual official car renting companies you can find at the airport (Avis, Europe car etc), and there are the other local outfits that you have to google find and either whatsapp them or find them on social media. Small outfits where information is not readily available online. And then there are also people who rent out their own cars. Everything goes. Be very aware of what type of insurance you are being offered when you rent a car. Typically from the official rental agencies, you should be able to get the normal insurance with excess. However, if you are renting from smaller outfit or from someone who claims they also rent cars, you get an insurance without excess - which means if the accident was your own fault you are stuck with the full bill. And that is what they call standard insurance. So make sure you clarify what the insurance policy is! And especially if you travel in the peak summer season, book your car way in advance! We thought we booked a car online but it turned out that website was old and the company no longer exists! We didn't pay anything but that throw a curveball and we had to scramble to find a car in 2 days!
Remember I said renting a car costs more than a night's stay? Most cars were going for at least 40EUR a day during summer, whereas you could find a very comfortable AirBnB for that price or less. Our car, from a private owner, was 35EUR/day and we thought it was never going to make it to the end!
Tirana
Tirana is a very lively city where you can find anything you want. Pretty much has everything a European city needs but less developed, with streets that may remind you a little of South East Asia (little mum and pop shops). It's got a growing vegan scene with a few nice vegan / vegetarian restaurants and some healthy food stores. Also pretty reasonable and cheap to do spa/massages.
Highly recommend trying Veggies Tirana. We wanted to visit Happy Belly but they were closed while we were there. We also had good pizza there at Pizzarte Tirana.
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| Best vege platter at Pizzarte Tirana |
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| Really good pizza at Pizzarte Tirana |
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| Buddha bowl @ Veggies Tirana |
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| Guilt free dessert @ Veggies Tirana |
We spent a few days in Tirana towards the end and stayed at Cozy Nest Ledi 20minutes outside the city center for less than 40EUR/day. The apartment had 3 bedrooms and very spacious and well equipped. One our last night, we booked a night at POP House which has interesting interior decor and right in the city center.
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| View of the Bovilla lake |
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| Bovilla |
You can easily walk the city center in a day, visiting all the must sees - the square, Bunk'Art 2, markets etc. Rock climbing is also a growing sport in Albania, with many routes already developed and more to be developed. A Rock climbing festival is scheduled for end of October 2022 to bring more awareness to the sport. We contacted RockTirana to book a rock climbing trip for two of us. Bovilla was the spot they brought us to - which has routes from easy to difficult, just the right level for us and an amazing view! It was 60EUR each including all equipment and transportation and usually starts in the afternoon since it is less sunny at Bovilla in the afternoon. There are also spots in Brar (more high level). Definitely hit them up for tips (if you want to climb by yourself) or rock climbing trips. We really enjoyed the afternoon spent at Bovilla.
Vlore
We went to Vlore for some diving in Albania. Vlore is just like a typical seaside city with resorts lining the beaches - almost has a Rhodes Island vibe except not as well developed in the resorts side of things, but definitely on the way there. We stayed outside of the center at a lovely place called Hotel Vila Oda E Miqve, which is about 10min drive outside of the main city center and perched up an incredibly step gravel road. Wouldn't recommend it without a car although you could possibly ask the host to pick you up, but then you will have to go down and back up again each time to go into town or for food. Other than that, the place was lovely, with a big terrace and lots of space! It was 38EUR/day including breakfast (one of the best breakfast provided)
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| Hospital Po wreck |
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| At the bow |
We went diving with Oazi Blu. It was only the two of us and we went to the famous Hospital Po wreck. The wreck is very close to shore, but you could only board the boat at the west side of Vlore. It was 130EUR for 2 dives, including equipment and lunch. The boat trip started at 9am, with the first dive, then we proceeded to the Zhanpovel beach for the surface interval where we rested for almost 2H, and then continued on to the 2nd dive at the same location. Really enjoyed the dive as the wreck was very well preserved and really beautiful. Best of all we had the whole wreck to ourselves the entire time!
To be honest, I thought diving was rather expensive in a country that is overall really cheap to live. Guess that is why not many people dive in Albania. Doubt the locals can afford to pay that much to dive.
Dhermi/Illyas
Our next stop was close to Dhermi. The drive from Vlore down the coast was pretty scenic, especially when you are in the Llogara National park with the winding roads down the mountains and into the sea. We made a brief stop at one of the bunkers along the way and did a little exploration.
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| Stop at the bunker |
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| we explored the inside of this tunnel |
We also made a lunch stop at a local vineyard Kantina Dukati where they serve a standard fare of food and some locally produced wine. There is no menu, but you do get charged per plate (go figure!). They also serve fresh pomegranate juice (tastes amazing but very expensive!) Our total bill came up to 1800LEK for the 2 of us with about 4 dishes (vegetarian). Our shock came when we saw the price for a bottle of pomegranate juice! Ian asked to buy a big bottle (1.5L) and that itself was 1000LEK! Our lunch was cheaper than the juice!
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| Driving along the coast |
We stayed 2 nights at Eva Apartments located in LLias, which is not by the beach. The elderly couple who owns this place are super cute and sweet. Eva is so nice, kept feeding us with fruits from her own garden! The place is about 5-10 mins drive from Dhermi beach or Gjipe beach.
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| One of a few viewpoints when you hike down from the top to Gjipe beach |
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| The walk way into the canyon |
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| Gjipe beach |
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| Exploring the canyon |
We spent the time exploring Gjipe beach, which is actually a really cool beach to spend at least half a day in. We hiked the way down and up from the parking spot closer to the top (free) - was a relatively short hike and you get a view of the canyon from the top. Once at Gjipe beach, we walked into the canyon to explore a little. Really cool canyon! You could get up to the main road from the canyon although some parts are more of a climb then a hike. There is also a closer parking spot where you don't need to hike as much to the beach - there you will need to pay a parking fee. You could also book a camping spot with tent provided if you want to spend the night on the beach.
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| Some Lara Croft climbing involved |
Gjirokaster
Next stop was the stone city of Gjirokaster. Once we drove into town, the vibe and feel were different from the previous places we had been. This felt a bit more European, with a tourist street full of restaurants, cafes and souvenir shops.
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| Gjirokaster |
We only stayed 1 night as the city is small enough to visit it all in one day. We booked a night at Grandpas GuestHouse. For 25EUR a night, we get a comfortably sized room with private bathroom and location is perfect. We visited the castle in the center of town and stopped by Te Kube for lunch. Really nice spot for a light lunch.
Nivica Canyon
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| Drove past this ancient bridge |
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| Very scenic drive with hardly any tourists |
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| Hiking in the canyon |
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| Mini waterfall |
We got a local tip from the dive guide to visit Nivica Canyon which was only recently developed for tourism. New roads were built which made it much easier to visit the place! I must say amazing location! It is indeed not well trodden at all, but worth a detour on your way our of Gjirokaster either towards Tirana or to Permet. Start your exploration at this Guesthouse as there is a path leading down towards the canyon where you can do a little hike along. We also saw a Camp Nivica which looked like it could be an awesome stay glamping with the views of the Canyon. Though it did not look to be operating when we were there. Would be great to know if it is indeed operating or will be as I think that's going to be a really cool location.
Permet
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| Permet town center |
From Nivica Canyon we drove to Permet, where the scenery changes drastically from the coastal road. Inland, it was lush, green and mountainous. Permet is a town by the Vjosa River. There are a few nice options here but we ended up booking with Shtepia Ime. For 29EUR/day we got a nice studio apartment, comfy beds and a balcony where we overlook the garden. The owner was kind enough to upgrade us to a bigger room with a kitchen as we were staying for 3 nights!
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| Vjosa river |
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| Hiking through the forest to the waterfall |
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| In search of the waterfall |
Unfortunately, the day we arrived, it was pouring rain! Which did not impact on our activities but it muddied the waters for our rafting the next day and instead of turquoise water, we got grey water. Still it was nice thing we did. We signed up with Albtourist Camp Site for the rafting (EUR30/person). The rafting was about 1.5-2H along the Vjosa River. It was not all high octane level but a nice cruise along the river. Would definitely recommend checking out the activities by the owners of this place. They are such nice people, very chill and even if you don't go with them, they will still provide information to help you. After the raft, we went for a little hike to a waterfall but gave up as the weather was looking a bit menacing.
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| Climbing in Permet |
Second day, we went back to the camp site to rent some climbing equipment and went climbing by ourselves. There is 1 rock face at the junction between main road to the turnoff towards the hot springs where there are several crags. We did some easy climb and was good to warm up. Could have gone longer but it looked like it may rain.
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| At the not hot hot spring pretending it is hot |
After, we headed to the Hot Springs. Which is a misnomer because the water is not hot at all. Was around 25C mostly. And pretty crowded. Walk all the way towards the end of the canyon for the warmest pool of water (27C).
We quite enjoyed the food offerings at Trifilia. But almost all the restaurants in town are offering the same menu.
Shkoder
We took the bus from Tirana to Shkoder. Do take note that it is 400Lek per person! The conductor scammed us and charged us 500Lek when we boarded. I had my suspicion as I read it should be 400 but I thought maybe the information was not updated. But on our way back, indeed we were charged 400.
The journey should be about 90mins to 2H, however we were stuck in traffic and took use almost 4H to arrive!
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| For about 3EUR each, you get a nourishing smoothie bowl |
Highly recommend the Stolia Coffee House if you are searching from a break from Albanian food. It's got a really nice brunch menu of smoothie bowls, sandwiches and salads. Although small, they were tasty.
We booked our stay with The wanderers Hostel. Do recommend them. The main building has a really cool vibe with lounge areas, pool tables and hammocks. They also have private rooms in a different building - we stayed in a double room for 30EUR/night. Reasonable sized, good wifi and comfy beds. The people are really helpful and do give you a lot of information on Shkoder and the famous Theth-Valbone hike! They can also help to book the transport and accommodation on the other side. They also do a nightly Albania happy hour for 2EUR/person where they serve local food. We didn't partake as it starts only at 20:00 and we were tired (needed an early night for the early departure).
The streets of Shkoder
In Shkoder, we rented a bike and just wandered around and along the lake. We were told to try the carp dish in any restaurants along the lake. All restaurants along the lake sell this dish and they know how to cook it they said. We ordered the grilled carp and we didn't like it. It was not a well cooked dish. Don't know if we didn't order the right method of cooking or what but super disappointed.
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| Bumpy ride |
Theth
Journey to Theth from Shkoder is pretty straight forward. There is only 1 bus that leaves around 7:30am (10EUR / person). It should take about 2H but the bus usually stops along the way to pick up more travellers or supplies to Theth. The scenery is pretty amazing once you get closer to Theth.
Theth town is like any other hiking town. There is a center where most thing concentrates in, and surrounded by dramatic mountain faces. There is no atm or money changer so come packed with all the cash you need to last you till you leave Theth or Valbone.
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| Theth |
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| Magic space |
Accommodations are not as cheap in Theth as it is very tourist and in high demand, and you should choose the location depending on whether you want to be near the center (where shops are) or near the start of the hiking point (which would be far from the shops). We chose Magic Space as it was new, relatively cheap (32EUR/night) and at least 1.5km into the start of the hike to Valbone. That was good news, but the bad news is every time we want to eat, we have to walk down and then back up again (a good 1.5km uphill). And they do not serve food at the accommodation. The location itself was really great as the house is by itself surrounded by nature, mountain and their own garden. Very quiet and peaceful. The room is spacious, though would have hoped the kitchen was equipped. But they only opened in 2022, so hopefully more improvements will come. The owners do not speak English so conversation may not be possible, but their daughter can be contacted via Instagram or whatsapp if you need to ask anything. Though truth be told, information may not be as accurate as they do not have a lot of information about the area.
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| Hiking to Grunas waterfall |
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| One of the famous church in Theth |
On arrival day, we hiked to the Grunas waterfall - It was about 1H to 1.5H hike one way, not strenuous (only the last part involves some uphill) and you walk past great scenery. The water is really cold (12C) so not many people were dipping in the waterfall but it's a really nice waterfall. We did take some dips (Wim Hof?) and was refreshing!
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| Grunas waterfall |
The next day we planned to go to the Blue Eye but it was pouring rain so we cancelled the trip. You could get a shuttle bus at the Mini Market for 700Lek per person, and then walk the remaining 45mins to the Blue Eye. The same shuttle will pick you up. Or if you feel energetic enough, you could walk 3H each way to the Blue Eye.
Would NOT recommend eating the the Jezerca Restaurant in the town center. Food is not tasty and the service is almost non existent. Do recommend the restaurant at Villa Gjecaj. It's got a nice menu with locally grown produce and a great outdoor seating.
Theth-Valbone Hike
We read that the hike takes about 6-8 hours to complete, depending on your level of fitness and speed. And because of the pouring rain the day before, we decided to start really early to avoid being caught in the rain. Which meant a 6am start for us. Unfortunately for us, our stomaches were not agreeing to something we ate, so we had a terrible night's sleep (or none at all), but in the end still decided to go ahead with the hike.
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| Beginning of the Theth-Valbone trail |
The beginning of the hike is in the forest so not that much of a view until you get to the peak where it is exposed. It is indeed steep track from the Theth side going uphill, and a gradual but LONG rocky descent to Valbone. Personally, I prefer to do it that way but the people at Wanderers Hostel recommended the other way round as it can be more dangerous going down the rocky long descent. We thought it would be even worse going down on a steep descent if the weather turned! But anyway to each their own. I doubt I would love the very long ascend from Valbone to the peak - even going down we were counting down to when we would actually arrive!
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| Descending on Valbone |
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| Dramatic scenery from Valbone |
The hike is not technical. Straight forward up and down. Walking sticks are recommended, or just pick up some sticks/branches along the way. There was one cafe open while we were hiking though we didn't stop by. Limited stock and mostly drinks but I read that those are sold at exorbitant prices (even expensive by European standards). But you can fill up your bottles with fresh spring water for free. Pack at least a 1.5L bottle for the hike and refill it when you get the chance.
I enjoyed the scenery once we reached the peak and were on the Valbone side. Also, it was not chilly at all at the top during summer, so you can very well hike with shorts and Tshirt.
We arrived in Valbone after 5H, much earlier than anticipated. Pushed along by the fear of downpour and our slightly sick bodies to quickly end the hike.
Valbone
Valbone is very much unlike Theth. It is very spread out, there is not town center, no shops in sight. Just a line of guesthouses along the main road. If your guesthouse is nowhere near the end of the hike, it is a pretty long walk to find it. We managed to hitch a ride from a local bus for 5EUR/person but unfortunately he took us to the wrong guesthouse and we had to walk a further 1KM.
We stayed at Bujtina Albjoni. It was affordable (27EUR/night) for a night room at the top with private bathroom. The WIFI, although advertised, did not work most of the time as the bandwidth is limited and there are power outrages frequently. And it can get quite noisy when people walk around the house. They do offer dinner for a fair price (6EUR/person) but we did not take dinner. We were so tired that we went to bed early and slept through the night.
Komani Lake
One of the highlights of Albania is to take a ferry along Komani Lake. Indeed I do agree. The scenery was amazing! Caves, cliffs, mountains jutting out along the lake.
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| Komani lake |
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| Packed ferry cruising the lake |
From Valbone, all guesthouses can help to arrange the transfer through to Shkoder. It starts with a bus ride to Firenze (10-10:30am and costs 800L/person or 7EUR). The journey is about 1H, and then you board the ferry (8EUR/person) for 2-3H. Upon arrival on the other side, you board another bus for about 1H (800L or 7EUR). You can buy the tickets with the first bus or you can buy them separately. The ferry tickets can also be bought online.
Driving around the country
The main roads are very well maintained - so you will have no trouble driving any car between cities. Only thing is the inland roads are very winding so a short distance usually takes double the time to complete. Traffic is terrible towards and in Tirana where there doesn't seem to be more traffic rules (except traffic lights), so you do have to be careful driving inside Tirana. But also outside. So do keep a good distance with the car in front in case of any sudden stops. Mostly we used Maps.Me as it runs without connection but some times, it doesn't have the most updated routes especially since a lot of development is happening in Albania - a couple new roads were not shown on Maps.Me navigation. Google maps works well on main roads and are more updated with new roads but not so much on side streets. Would suggest toggling between the two.
Food
Inside Tirana, you can get any type of cuisine. Outside Tirana, you will most likely only have Albanian food. And Albania food is quite meat centric. So being a vegetarian is not impossible, but can get quite boring (how many times can you eat stuffed peppers, stuffed aubergine, greek salad?). Being a vegan can be a bit more difficult outside Tirana as a lot of the food comes with cheese (stuffed peppers, stuffed aubergine). So do take advantage of the different cuisine and restaurants when you are in Tirana as you will only have Albania restaurants once you leave the capital. Hence why we ate at vegan restaurants, pizza places in Tirana.
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| Aubergine |
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| Fergese - traditional Albanian cuisine |
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| Stuffed aubergine - also traditional Albanian cuisine |
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| Stewed beans - Traditional Albanian cuisine |
People
We have had good experiences with the locals. They may look unfriendly but once you start talking to them, they open up! And some of them do have quite a fair bit to share. And sometimes, it may seem like they are unfriendly but it could be due to language barrier. Except for the bus conductor who overcharged us by 100LEK, we did not get cheated other times at shops. Even buying fruits from the street vendors, we were charged a fair price (in our opinion).
Fruit
Pretty much you can get free fruit (outside of Tirana) just in the gardens or randomly along the streets. When we were there, figs were everywhere and free to be picked. So are grapes! A lot of the guesthouses we stayed in had their own gardens and vines and lots of grapes. And lots of berries you can just pick off trees! We probably ate a couple years' worth of figs in our 2.5weeks!
Albania
We did not have time to stop by Berat as it is not along the way from Permet to Tirana. This might change in the coming years if/when they upgrade the roads. There are other towns/cities that seem to have quite some adventures to offer, also some day trips you could make out of Tirana within a 1hour drive.
Definitely recommend visiting Albania. Food is cheap (we mostly never spend more than 20EUR for two people for dinner with drinks included) and accommodation also very affordable and the country itself is still very much undiscovered. It is a beautiful country inland especially, dramatic mountain landscape. The beaches, not so much. They are all littered with umbrellas and chairs - beach club style and mostly stone beaches, so not a fan of the Albanian beach. But do note that Albania is alive between May - October but is not yet geared for Off Season Tourism (Theth - Valbone trek is closed after October). So although it does seem like they do offer good skiing locations, you probably need to do more research or ask the locals for more information on what can be done in the off season.
